Barbarian Days

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Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days
  • Author : William Finnegan
  • Publisher : Penguin
  • Release : 21 July 2015
GET THIS BOOKBarbarian Days

**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** *Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List* A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as

Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days
  • Author : William Finnegan
  • Publisher : Penguin
  • Release : 26 April 2016
GET THIS BOOKBarbarian Days

Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days
  • Author : William Finnegan
  • Publisher : Hachette UK
  • Release : 06 August 2015
GET THIS BOOKBarbarian Days

Winner of the Pulitzer Price and William Hill Sports Book of the Year: Barbarian Days is a deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer looking for transcendence 'that recalls early James Salter' (Geoff Dyer, Observer) Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. New Yorker writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is

Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days
  • Author : William Finnegan
  • Publisher : Penguin
  • Release : 21 July 2015
GET THIS BOOKBarbarian Days

**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** *Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List* A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as

A Complicated War

A Complicated War
  • Author : William Finnegan
  • Publisher : Univ of California Press
  • Release : 26 February 1993
GET THIS BOOKA Complicated War

Among Africa's suffering is the little- known war in Mozambique, now in its second decade. Finnegan traveled through the country in 1988 to assess the impact of a war waged by guerrillas who are armed and often directed by South Africa. He tells a compelling story of rural misery caused by the war, which in turn offers a fertile ground for its continuation. Finnegan's narrative includes historical background and critical analysis of the Mozambique government whose policies have not created an

Yellow Bird

Yellow Bird
  • Author : Sierra Crane Murdoch
  • Publisher : Random House
  • Release : 25 February 2020
GET THIS BOOKYellow Bird

The gripping true story of a murder on an Indian reservation, and the unforgettable Arikara woman who becomes obsessed with solving it—an urgent work of literary journalism. “I don’t know a more complicated, original protagonist in literature than Lissa Yellow Bird, or a more dogged reporter in American journalism than Sierra Crane Murdoch.”—William Finnegan, Pulitzer Prize–winning author of Barbarian Days NAMED ONE OF THE BEST BOOKS OF THE YEAR BY The New York Times Book Review •

Let My People Go Surfing

Let My People Go Surfing
  • Author : Yvon Chouinard
  • Publisher : Penguin
  • Release : 06 September 2016
GET THIS BOOKLet My People Go Surfing

In this newly revised 10th anniversary edition, Yvon Chouinard--legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.--shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian handyman to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing

Ghost Wave

Ghost Wave
  • Author : Chris Dixon
  • Publisher : Chronicle Books
  • Release : 21 October 2011
GET THIS BOOKGhost Wave

Rising from the depths of the North Pacific lies a fabled island, now submerged just 15 feet below the surface of the ocean. Rumors and warnings about Cortes Bank abound, but among big wave surfers, this legendary rock is famous for one simple (and massive) reason: this is the home of the biggest rideable wave on the face of the earth. In this dramatic work of narrative non-fiction, journalist Chris Dixon unlocks the secrets of Cortes Bank and pulls readers into

BAD KARMA

BAD KARMA
  • Author : Paul Wilson
  • Publisher : Ocean Front Publishing
  • Release : 23 October 2019
GET THIS BOOKBAD KARMA

In the summer of 1978, twenty-one-year-old Paul Wilson jumps at the chance to join two local icons on a dream surf trip to mainland Mexico, unaware their ultimate destination lies in the heart of drug cartel country. Having no earthly idea of where he’ll get the money to pay his share, and determined to prove his mettle, he does the only thing he can think of: He robs a supermarket. And, if karma didn’t already have enough reason to

Pour Me, a Life

Pour Me, a Life
  • Author : A.A. Gill
  • Publisher : Penguin
  • Release : 27 September 2016
GET THIS BOOKPour Me, a Life

Serialized in Esquire, A.A. Gill's Pour Me a Life is a riveting meditation on the author's alcoholism, seen through the lens of the memories that remain, and the transformative moments that saved him from a lifelong addiction and early death. “Pour Me a Life is an unapologet­ically honest, raw, and often har­rowing account of the life of a man who, up until now, we only thought we knew. Here is A.A. Gill at his best. A

Kook

Kook
  • Author : Peter Heller
  • Publisher : Simon and Schuster
  • Release : 13 July 2010
GET THIS BOOKKook

Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave— that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner)

The History of Surfing

The History of Surfing
  • Author : Matt Warshaw
  • Publisher : Chronicle Books
  • Release : 29 April 2011
GET THIS BOOKThe History of Surfing

Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who

In Search of Captain Zero

In Search of Captain Zero
  • Author : Allan Weisbecker
  • Publisher : TarcherPerigee
  • Release : 24 January 2021
GET THIS BOOKIn Search of Captain Zero

A surfer, photojournalist, and author describes his two-year odyssey from Mexico to Central America to search for his missing long-time friend and surfing companion, Christopher Conner, and his bizarre adventures along the way.

Caught Inside

Caught Inside
  • Author : Daniel Duane
  • Publisher : Macmillan
  • Release : 10 April 1997
GET THIS BOOKCaught Inside

Recounts a year of surfing in California, shares observations on Pacific shore ecology, and looks at the history of the state and surfing

Two Trees Make a Forest

Two Trees Make a Forest
  • Author : Jessica J. Lee
  • Publisher : Penguin
  • Release : 28 July 2020
GET THIS BOOKTwo Trees Make a Forest

WINNER of the 2020 Hilary Weston Writers' Trust Non-Fiction Prize Longlisted for Canada Reads 2021 One of The Globe and Mail’s “100 favourite books of 2020” On CBC’s list of “the best Canadian nonfiction of 2020” An exhilarating, anti-colonial reclamation of nature writing and memoir, rooted in the forests and flatlands of Taiwan from the winner of the RBC Taylor Prize for Emerging Writers "Two Trees Make a Forest is a finely faceted meditation on memory, love, landscape--and finding a home in language.